This article explains bicycle chain compatibility – which chains can be combined with which number of “speeds” (cassettes and cranks). From one to 12 speeds.
If you have any questions (or additions and corrections), please use the BikeGremlin forum’s compatibility section:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/forums/bike-compatibility/
Before you start, to avoid any misunderstanding:
please take the 5 minutes needed to read the compatibility articles use instructions.
Table Of Contents (T.O.C.):
- Basic bicycle chain facts
- Single-speed chains
- Five, 6, 7 and 8-speed chains
- 9 speeds
- 10 speeds
- 11 speeds
- 12 speeds
- Symmetrical vs asymmetrical chains
- Chain width standards table
TL/DR
Briefly put: you can use chains for more speeds with fewer-speed cassettes (and front chainrings), but not vice versa (at least not with cassettes – front chainrings are more forgiving for any mismatch).
For example: an 11-speed chain works fine on a 9-speed cassette (and cranks), but a 9-speed chain won’t be OK on an 11-speed cassette.
I’ve also explained the chain pitch, construction, and brielfy discussed symmetrical vs asymmetrical chains and added a table with chain widths depending on the number of “speeds.” You can use the table of contents to skip to the parts of interest.
1. Basic bicycle chain facts
All the bicycle chains share the same pitch of half an inch.
Where chains differ is the width. The more speeds, the narrower chain. Single-speed chains are the widest, both on the outside, and the inner roller width. They have a roller width of 1/8″ (3.175 mm).
The inner roller width of all the multi-speed chains is almost the same, being:
- Single-speed chains have an inner width of 1/8″ (3.175 mm).
- Multi-speed chains, from 5 to 8 speeds have an inner width of 3/32″ (2.38 mm).
- Multi-speed chains from 9 to 12 speeds have an inner width of 11/128″ (2.18 mm).
- An “exotic” standard for freight bicycles is a chain width of 5/32″ (4 mm).
Where they differ significantly is the outer width.
- A detailed overview of dimension standards is in the post: Bicycle drive chain standard dimensions.
- Post giving full view and explanation of bicycle chain construction (parts): Bicycle chain wear (elongation).
- See this great post by “Graeme_FK” on the Cycle Chat forum for an in-detail explanation of the “fine print” in terms of Campagnolo vs Shimano vs SRAM vs 1x chain compatibility and size differences.
How to connect and disconnect chains, with or without using quick links, video demonstration:
2. Single-speed chains
Single-speed chains are the widest of all. Both by the outer and the inner roller width: 1/8″ (3.175 mm) wide, compared to 3/32″ (2.38 mm) multi-speed ones. Since single speed chain is by far the cheapest, there is no need to experiment with multi-speed chains. However, 6 to 8-speed chains can fit some single speed bicycles – depending on the chainring width.
3. Five, 6, 7 and 8-speed chains
A 7.1 mm wide 8-speed chain* will fit all the other systems (5, 6 and 7-speed ones). Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo all use the same chain with 8 speeds. The chain for 7 speeds is a bit wider – 7.3 mm, while a 6-speed one is substantially wider – 7.8 mm. That is why the reverse is not the case and a 7-speed chain and especially a 6-speed one will not work very well on an 8-speed system.
* Based on my most recent measurements, 8-speed chain widths vary from 7 mm (SRAM PC-830), to 7.3 mm (KMC X-8). Also, some manufacturers (like KMC) make their 6, 7, and 8-speed chains using the same width of 7.3 mm. This (and my personal experience with 7.3 mm wide KMC chains) leads me to conclude that 7.3 mm wide chains work fine for 8 speed cassettes. Also, as noted in this article, using a narrower chain works fine in practice (hence, the 7.3 mm wide chain runs fine on a 6-speed cassette). However, don’t let this “fool you” into using any 6-speed chain on an 8-speed cassette, since you might run into a 7.8 mm wide chain (i.e. “a proper 6-speed chain”), which won’t work very nice on an 8-speed cassette (haven’t tried it on a 7-speed one, but generally, extra-wide chains don’t fare very well, while narrower ones usually run without any problems).
Of others, 9-speed chains can work. They’re a bit narrower than optimal, but can be used. The reverse is not wise, since a wider 5 – 8 speed chain can get stuck between narrower 9-speed sprockets.
Going further narrower, like a 10, or 11-speed chain on an 8-speed cassette can and often does work.
I’ve had good results even with running a 10-speed chain on a 7-speed cassette and cranks.
However, especially with older 6-speed cassettes combined with 11, or 12-speed chains, there is a risk of the chain getting stuck between the cassette sprocket teeth and/or poorer shifting.
An exception is SRAM 1x systems, for DH MTB bicycles – they have 7 rear sprockets, but use an 11-speed chain!
4. 9 speeds
The chain width is about 6.7 mm. In a pinch, a 10-speed chain can be used. Still, the narrower chain is more expensive, doesn’t last as long *1 and might cause a bit slower shifting… but it will work. Problems generally occur at the rear – on cassettes. Front chainrings are less sensitive to the thickness of the chain used.
Otherwise, all the 9-speed chains will work well, regardless of the manufacturer: Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano.
5. 10 speeds
The chain width is 5.88 mm. Same as for 9 speeds: all the manufacturers can be mixed and a chain for one speed more can be used in a pinch – an 11 -speed chain in this case.
6. 11 speeds
The chain width is 5.62 mm. 11-speed chains of all the manufacturers are mutually compatible.
Since 10 and 11-speed chains (as well as cassette teeth) have almost the same widths, a 10-speed chain can be used instead of an 11 speed-one, without it jamming between the sprockets. However, this will still not work perfectly and will cause premature sprocket wear, so better to avoid it.
The exception are Shimano Hyperglide+ chains, which work only with Hyperglide+ cassettes, whether they are 11, or 12-speed (the same chain is used) – according to Shimano, haven’t put that to the test.
7. 12 speeds
Chain width is 5.25 mm. Made by SRAM, and (from mid-2018) by Shimano for their 12-speed MTB groupsets (for now), and Campagnolo (who only make road groupsets). They generally work with fewer speed systems, with two “catches:”
- SRAM Flattop chains might skip on cassettes that are not SRAM AXS road cassettes (they have a bit larger diameter rollers and can skip on “normal” cassettes, including SRAM Eagle MTB cassettes).
- Shimano Hyperglide+ 11 and 12-speed chains work nicely only with Hyperglide+ chainrings and cassettes.
8. Symmetrical vs asymmetrical chains
Shimano is, as far as I know, the only manufacturer that makes asymmetrical chains (as well as regular, symmetrical ones). The advantage of an asymmetrical chain is easier and quicker shifting from the small to the large front chainring and vice versa.
The picture above shows how the asymmetrical chain doesn’t have the same outer plates for the “outer” and “inner” (towards the bicycle) side.
When Shimano first introduced asymmetrical chains for road double chainrings, it was recommended not to use them on triple chainrings. They still, however, work well on triple chainrings as well.
Help BikeGremlin
stay online & independent
This website is educational, free, objective, and not commercial
(sponsors don’t enjoy paying if you mention all the product downsides that you notice 🙂 ).
How much does a WordPress website cost?
If you find this site to be good and helpful,
and if $5 per month is what you can afford to set aside,
please consider supporting my work with a Patreon donation:
9. Chain width standards table
Table of chain outer widths:
(this table is for the readers’ convenience – an up-to-date table is in the article about bicycle chain standards)
Chain no. of speeds | Outer width in mm |
---|---|
All 6-speed | 7.8 |
All 7-speed | 7.3 |
All 8-speed | 7 ~ 7.3 * |
All 9-speed | 6.5 – 6.7 |
10-speed old Campagnolo | 6.2 |
All other 10-speed | 5.84 – 6.1 |
All 11-speed | 5.46 – 5.74 ** |
SRAM 12-speed MTB | 5.25 |
Shimano 12-speed MTB and 13-speed chains | See the table in the article about Bicycle chain standards (it’s more accurate when updating info in one place only) |
** Related to 11-speed, see the two comments by Klaus here (thanks for the valuable feedback),
until I double-check and confirm.
Related post – How to shorten a new chain to size when mounting:
Compatibility posts are also available in eBook (printable and Kindle) and paperback editions on Amazon:
If you have any questions (or additions and corrections), please use the BikeGremlin forum’s compatibility section:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/forums/bike-compatibility/
The existing comments regarding this article (questions and answers) have been moved to this BikeGremlin forum thread:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/threads/compatibility-01-chains-article-comments.102/
- I did a bicycle chain durability test and concluded that, in practice, chain durability depends on its build quality, not on its number of speeds (i.e. its thickness). ↩︎
Last updated:
Originally published:
Hi Relja,
Thank you so much for your very informative and helpful reply! I probably spend 80% of my time riding in just 4 gears: 42-19, 42-17, 52-19 & 52-17. These cover me on the flats and small rollers depending on wind speed/direction, and the remaining 20% of the time I’m in 42-24 for uphill and 52-13 for down. That said, it sounds like the compact options you suggested might provide just what I need. The 46-30 combo with the more ‘universal large chainring is especially interesting, as it seems I could spend the majority of my time on the large chainring to cover the range I use most and only shift to the smaller ring when it gets hilly, although I guess after all these years I am pretty used to the double shift. 🙂
BTW, I recently heard a suggestion to consider shortening the crank arms as a way to help keep cadence up hills. I’ve always run 175mm’s, as I’m 6’3″ with a 36″ inseem and weigh 175 lbs. Have you ever heard of doing this? I thought crank arm length was typically tied to leg length.
Thanks again very much for the super info Relja, and have a Blessed Day!
Take care!
Mitch
“And whatever you do, whether in word or deed, do it all in the name of the Lord Jesus, giving thanks to God the Father through him. Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for human masters, since you know that you will receive an inheritance from the Lord as a reward. It is the Lord Christ you are serving.” Colossians 3:17, 3:23-24
Shorter cranks generally do make higher cadences a bit easier. But that’s not the whole story. There are a few more things to bear in mind:
1) Taller people, i.e. those with longer legs, might still find longer cranks as a better fit.
2) On the climbs, cadences rarely go super-high, while longer cranks do provide more leverage.
3) Differences are relatively subtle, slight, unless one rides over 100 rpm quite often.
So I wouldn’t sweat the length of the current cranks, while, if buying a new set (all else being equal), I’d probably look for 172.5 mm length (for 6’3″ height, and a road bicycle).
Regards,
Relja
Hey Relja,
Thanks for your additional helpful info! You’ve given me a lot of great tips, and as a result, I feel MUCH better prepared to find the right solution to keep me in the saddle a bit more and improve my “advanced age” hill climbing. 🙂
It’s certain to be a fun adventure, and I’m really looking forward to upgrading my ride.
Here’s wishing you and yours a very Blessed Christmas and most Joyous New Year, filled with lots of happy riding adventures.
Thanks again Relja, and all the best!
Take care!
Mitch
“And whatever you do, whether in word or deed, do it all in the name of the Lord Jesus, giving thanks to God the Father through him. Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for human masters, since you know that you will receive an inheritance from the Lord as a reward. It is the Lord Christ you are serving.” Colossians 3:17, 3:23-24
Hi Mitch,
Thanks – happy holidays to you to. 🙂
Let me know what you went for and how it worked out for you.
Regards,
Relja
Hi there Relja,
I am wondering if an MTB 8 speed to 12 speed chains will work on a bmx chainring? Because, I would like to install a BMX crank to my DH bike.
Thanks,
Marcea
Hi Marcea,
It depends. Some single speed chainrings are designed for single speed chains – so multi speed chains, that are narrower in their mid-section (between the inner plates, call it “roller width”) won’t fit.
Some can take multi speed chains. Still, even with those – 12 speed chains, like the Shimano MTB 12 speed one, won’t work very well with anything but their chainrings and cassettes.
Also, I fail to see the point in buying a more expensive multi speed chain for a single speed drivetrain. Single speed chains are noticeably cheaper, and not less durable.
Relja
Relja,
Yikes!, I am reading it again your article above. Online store leads me to this – > Chainring for BMX is indeed 1/8″ whereas the multi speed is 3/32″. You’re right, but I am a little bit sad. Somehow converting my DH to BMX, It was a childhooood memory though for a BMX bike.
Happy Holidays and Gracias!.
Marcea
Hi Relja,
Great article thanks
Question.
Was originally running a 1 x 12 speed, now I am running 1 x 10 speed set up on an mtb. I have kept the original 12 speed 32 teeth front chainring attached to the cranks, does that matter? I ask because i seem to be snapping my shimano chain pretty frequently, which I know is not uncommon as Shimano chain links seem very thin.
When i changed to 1 x 10 speed I got new shifter, new cassette, new derailler and new chain, all 10 speed.
thanks
Hi Oliver,
Chains snap from lateral motion, when they are stuck against a chainring (happens more commonly on the front, but can also happen on the rear chainrings).
Chain links are more than strong enough for any power that human beings are capable of producing. Even the modern, high-speed chains with thinner plates.
Why it gets stuck?
The most common cause is shifting under load.
2nd most common cause is not enough lubrication on the chain.
Also, in case the chainline is not matched, chain plates could be pushed apart, effectively breaking the chain.
That is: especially if the front chainring is too far out (away from the bicycle), so that the chain is at a really awkward angle when it is on the largest few cassette sprockets (which is usually used when climbing – and when the most load is applied). In that case the chain comes at an angle to the front chainring. 1x narrow-wide chainring tooth profile is designed to get a stronger grip on the chain, buy allowing very little slack, very little room between the inner plates, in order to keep the chain in place and prevent it from derailing off. But it’s a fine balance – 1x drivetrains do work with more “cross chaining” compared to 2x and 3x drivetrains, because the one front chainring, in one position, is used for the entire cassette – and modern cassettes are rather wide (talking about all of the 7+ speed cassettes).
These two demands (firmer grip, with the chain having more angle in many gearing combinations) are somewhat conflicting. So I suppose that could be one of the reasons for the chain snapping.
Relatively short chainstays of modern bicycle frames (modern as of the year 2000+) certainly don’t help with chain angles.
Of course, one problem does not exclude the others. That is what makes troubleshooting interesting and challenging (and frustrating sometimes).
I suggest using the combined knowledge of the human race, by posting the question on bikeforums.net Bicycle Mechanics section. 🙂
Many avid cyclists and excellent mechanics contribute there.
If you note the exact models of your cranks, chainring, cassette, and chain – it is not unlikely that someone had already faced, and solved, that particular problem. I often get pleasantly surprised by the amount of experience and expertise of the bikeforums.net members.
On this website, if you click on the date and time under a user name in the comment section, you’ll get a link leading exactly to the given comment – so it can be referenced to if needed, to get 2nd opinions.
Relja