This article explains bicycle chain compatibility – which chains can be combined with which number of “speeds” (cassettes and cranks). From one to 12 speeds.
If you have any questions (or additions and corrections), please use the BikeGremlin forum’s compatibility section:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/forums/bike-compatibility/
Before you start, to avoid any misunderstanding:
please take the 5 minutes needed to read the compatibility articles use instructions.
Table Of Contents (T.O.C.):
- Basic bicycle chain facts
- Single-speed chains
- Five, 6, 7 and 8-speed chains
- 9 speeds
- 10 speeds
- 11 speeds
- 12 speeds
- Symmetrical vs asymmetrical chains
- Chain width standards table
TL/DR
Briefly put: you can use chains for more speeds with fewer-speed cassettes (and front chainrings), but not vice versa (at least not with cassettes – front chainrings are more forgiving for any mismatch).
For example: an 11-speed chain works fine on a 9-speed cassette (and cranks), but a 9-speed chain won’t be OK on an 11-speed cassette.
I’ve also explained the chain pitch, construction, and brielfy discussed symmetrical vs asymmetrical chains and added a table with chain widths depending on the number of “speeds.” You can use the table of contents to skip to the parts of interest.
1. Basic bicycle chain facts
All the bicycle chains share the same pitch of half an inch.
Where chains differ is the width. The more speeds, the narrower chain. Single-speed chains are the widest, both on the outside, and the inner roller width. They have a roller width of 1/8″ (3.175 mm).
The inner roller width of all the multi-speed chains is almost the same, being:
- Single-speed chains have an inner width of 1/8″ (3.175 mm).
- Multi-speed chains, from 5 to 8 speeds have an inner width of 3/32″ (2.38 mm).
- Multi-speed chains from 9 to 12 speeds have an inner width of 11/128″ (2.18 mm).
- An “exotic” standard for freight bicycles is a chain width of 5/32″ (4 mm).
Where they differ significantly is the outer width.
C – outer width at the joining link (for single speed chains)
Campagnolo 11 speed, SRAM 10 speed, Shimano 9 sp, SRAM 6/7/8 sp, old 5 speed, 1/8″ single speed chain.
Note how rollers of all the multispeed chains are almost of the same width.
- A detailed overview of dimension standards is in the post: Bicycle drive chain standard dimensions.
- Post giving full view and explanation of bicycle chain construction (parts): Bicycle chain wear (elongation).
- See this great post by “Graeme_FK” on the Cycle Chat forum for an in-detail explanation of the “fine print” in terms of Campagnolo vs Shimano vs SRAM vs 1x chain compatibility and size differences.
How to connect and disconnect chains, with or without using quick links, video demonstration:
2. Single-speed chains
Single-speed chains are the widest of all. Both by the outer and the inner roller width: 1/8″ (3.175 mm) wide, compared to 3/32″ (2.38 mm) multi-speed ones. Since single speed chain is by far the cheapest, there is no need to experiment with multi-speed chains. However, 6 to 8-speed chains can fit some single speed bicycles – depending on the chainring width.
3. Five, 6, 7 and 8-speed chains
A 7.1 mm wide 8-speed chain* will fit all the other systems (5, 6 and 7-speed ones). Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo all use the same chain with 8 speeds. The chain for 7 speeds is a bit wider – 7.3 mm, while a 6-speed one is substantially wider – 7.8 mm. That is why the reverse is not the case and a 7-speed chain and especially a 6-speed one will not work very well on an 8-speed system.
* Based on my most recent measurements, 8-speed chain widths vary from 7 mm (SRAM PC-830), to 7.3 mm (KMC X-8). Also, some manufacturers (like KMC) make their 6, 7, and 8-speed chains using the same width of 7.3 mm. This leads me to conclude that 7.3 mm wide chains work fine for 8 speed cassettes. Also, as noted in this article, using a narrower chain works fine in practice (hence, the 7.3 mm wide chain runs fine on a 6-speed cassette). However, don’t let this “fool you” into using any 6-speed chain on an 8-speed cassette, since you might run into a 7.8 mm wide chain (i.e. “a proper 6-speed chain”), which won’t work very nice on an 8-speed cassette (haven’t tried it on a 7-speed one, but generally, extra-wide chains don’t fare very well, while narrower ones usually run without any problems).
Of others, 9-speed chains can work. They’re a bit narrower than optimal, but can be used. The reverse is not wise, since a wider 5 – 8 speed chain can get stuck between narrower 9-speed sprockets.
Going further narrower, like a 10, or 11-speed chain on an 8-speed cassette can and often does work.
I’ve had good results even with running a 10-speed chain on a 7-speed cassette and cranks.
However, especially with older 6-speed cassettes combined with 11, or 12-speed chains, there is a risk of the chain getting stuck between the cassette sprocket teeth and/or poorer shifting.
An exception is SRAM 1x systems, for DH MTB bicycles – they have 7 rear sprockets, but use an 11-speed chain!
4. 9 speeds
The chain width is about 6.7 mm. In a pinch, a 10-speed chain can be used. Still, the narrower chain is more expensive, doesn’t last as long *1 and might cause a bit slower shifting… but it will work. Problems generally occur at the rear – on cassettes. Front chainrings are less sensitive to the thickness of the chain used.
Otherwise, all the 9-speed chains will work well, regardless of the manufacturer: Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano.
5. 10 speeds
The chain width is 5.88 mm. Same as for 9 speeds: all the manufacturers can be mixed and a chain for one speed more can be used in a pinch – an 11 -speed chain in this case.
6. 11 speeds
The chain width is 5.62 mm. 11-speed chains of all the manufacturers are mutually compatible.
Since 10 and 11-speed chains (as well as cassette teeth) have almost the same widths, a 10-speed chain can be used instead of an 11 speed-one, without it jamming between the sprockets. However, this will still not work perfectly and will cause premature sprocket wear, so better to avoid it.
The exception are Shimano Hyperglide+ chains, which work only with Hyperglide+ cassettes, whether they are 11, or 12-speed (the same chain is used) – according to Shimano, haven’t put that to the test.
7. 12 speeds
Chain width is 5.25 mm. Made by SRAM, and (from mid-2018) by Shimano for their 12-speed MTB groupsets (for now), and Campagnolo (who only make road groupsets). They generally work with fewer speed systems, with two “catches:”
- SRAM Flattop chains might skip on cassettes that are not SRAM AXS road cassettes (they have a bit larger diameter rollers and can skip on “normal” cassettes, including SRAM Eagle MTB cassettes).
- Shimano Hyperglide+ 11 and 12-speed chains work nicely only with Hyperglide+ chainrings and cassettes.
8. Symmetrical vs asymmetrical chains
Shimano is, as far as I know, the only manufacturer that makes asymmetrical chains (as well as regular, symmetrical ones). The advantage of an asymmetrical chain is easier and quicker shifting from the small to the large front chainring and vice versa.
The picture above shows how the asymmetrical chain doesn’t have the same outer plates for the “outer” and “inner” (towards the bicycle) side.
When Shimano first introduced asymmetrical chains for road double chainrings, it was recommended not to use them on triple chainrings. They still, however, work well on triple chainrings as well.
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9. Chain width standards table
Table of chain outer widths:
(this table is for the readers’ convenience – an up-to-date table is in the article about bicycle chain standards)
| Chain no. of speeds | Outer width in mm |
|---|---|
| All 6-speed | 7.8 |
| All 7-speed | 7.3 |
| All 8-speed | 7 ~ 7.3 * |
| All 9-speed | 6.5 – 6.7 |
| 10-speed old Campagnolo | 6.2 |
| All other 10-speed | 5.84 – 6.1 |
| All 11-speed | 5.46 – 5.74 ** |
| SRAM 12-speed MTB | 5.25 |
| Shimano 12-speed MTB and 13-speed chains | See the table in the article about Bicycle chain standards (it’s more accurate when updating info in one place only) |
** Related to 11-speed, see the two comments by Klaus here (thanks for the valuable feedback),
until I double-check and confirm.
Related post – How to shorten a new chain to size when mounting:
Compatibility posts are also available in eBook (printable and Kindle) and paperback editions on Amazon:
If you have any questions (or additions and corrections), please use the BikeGremlin forum’s compatibility section:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/forums/bike-compatibility/
The existing comments regarding this article (questions and answers) have been moved to this BikeGremlin forum thread:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/threads/compatibility-01-chains-article-comments.102/
- I did a bicycle chain durability test and concluded that, in practice, chain durability depends on its build quality, not on its number of speeds (i.e. its thickness). ↩︎
I have a Kmc X10 sl dlc 10 speed black/green chain (Was bloody expensive) looking to fit it to my 9 speed bike I’m aware the sizings between 9 and 10 are a tiny bit different but will it work?
It should work fine.
The other way round (9 speed chain on a 10 speed cassette) could cause problems – since the chain would be too wide.
But this, with the chain being slightly narrower than necessary is fine.
Currently running a 10-speed chain on a 7 speed cassette myself. 🙂
Is a wider 7 spd chain (7.2 -7.3) going to work better than a “one size fits all” 6,7,8 spd chain (7.1), on my Ultegra 7 speed?
I wouldn’t expect a wider chain to work any better.
Would SRAM 10 Ring Chainrings work with the new SHIMANO 105 11-speed groupset? I have some really nice Carbon Cranks and nearly new 10 speed SRAM chainrings on my bike, but want to upgrade to the SHIMANO 105 11-speed shifters/derrailleuer/Cassette. What are your thoughts?
I’d definitely give the old cranks a test before buying anything new. Would expect them to work fine.
Although, I’d first consider: what is wrong/lacking with the current setup? What exactly needs to be upgraded?
Thank you for all of your good information!
I am trying to make an old 5-speed ride-able for my wife, and this information helped quite a bit.
I thought I had it all figured out- just get a compatible chain for a 6,7, or 8 speed and I’m good to go, but then saw a comment in a 6-speed KMC chain advertisement where the poster said the chain wouldn’t work oh his/her 5-speed. I’m now thinking that comment must have been in error, as no reason was given for why it wouldn’t work.
Trying to do this cheaply, as if she doesn’t take to riding like I have, no big loss- but also if she does take to it, I may have to get her a newer bike with a triple chain ring setup to climb some of the 5% grades in the area. I could tweak the gearset on this old Murray, but the steel frame would be a hard thing for which to compensate!
Hi Relja,
Thank you for the excellent and informative article! I’m looking for a little help on how I can best add lower gearing to my road bike and wondered if you might be able to provide any advice.
I have a 1986 Cannondale SR400 that I love and have been riding since it was new. I’m now 59 though and looking for a little lower gearing than the 175mm 42/52 Shimano 105 chainset and 13-24 SunTour six speed threaded 126mm freewheel allow so I can spin up the hilly areas I enjoy riding. The front and rear derailleurs are SunTour Cycone friction. I upgraded the wheels around 1990 to Campy C record hubs with Omega Hardox rims, so I’m reluctant to switch to a modern cassette 130mm freehub, both because of the excellence of the current wheels, and the 126mm to 130mm hub spacing difference with my aluminum frame. I’ve seen a few 7 speed freewheels that have a 28 tooth cog, but they were quite inexpensive and I thought they may be heavy and/or lower quality items. If I switch components, I’d like to reduce weight and improve quality/performance. I also wasn’t sure about the ability of my short cage rear derailleur to handle it.
I’m wondering about the possibility of using a compact chainset such as a 50-34 but noticed they are often listed as “11 Speed” or “12 Speed” chainsets. Would you know if such chainsets might perform properly with a six speed freewheel using a six speed chain?
Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thanks very much Relja, and have a Blessed Day!!!
Mitch
“And whatever you do, whether in word or deed, do it all in the name of the Lord Jesus, giving thanks to God the Father through him. Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart, as working for the Lord, not for human masters, since you know that you will receive an inheritance from the Lord as a reward. It is the Lord Christ you are serving.” Colossians 3:17, 3:23-24
Hello Mitch,
Brief answer:
Any road cranks, including 10, and 11 speed 50-34 ones (probably even better 46-30 – to offer lower gearing) should work.
Long… long answer: 🙂
Your comment struck a cord – some 2 weeks ago I had to resort to this (zig-zag) technique for a significant part of a rather steep and long climb. 🙂 It was a Sunday, and a relatively abandoned road at this part of the year – any odd traffic could be heard coming from kilometres away.
I also run 42/53 (half-step gearing 🙂 ), but with a Shimano deore rear derailleur, and a custom made cassette that goes from 12 to 34 teeth. Laced the rear wheel with a Joytech freehub (cheap, 2nd hand, but works well), and used good sprockets of 3 different cassettes (and a mix of Uniglide and Hyperglide sprockets, combined – mix of 7 and 8 speed sprockets and spacers). Friction (down tube) shifters allowed for that to work wonderfully. And, I hope as I get back into shape that I won’t have to swap the cranks for a triple, or a more modern compact double (like 30-46, or 34-54). I kinda like the half step gearing up front – for most of the terrain – at least with the custom cassette I’ve made.
Not 100% sure (would have to check) if the rear spacing on my bike is 126, or 130, but I know that I had to remove some spacers from the hub – replacing them with a bit narrower ones (because I didn’t want to “torture” the frame, even though it’s a steel one – it rides too wonderfully to be touched 🙂 ). And, in order to avoid the rear wheel from getting extremely dished, I narrowed both the left, and the right hand side. Resulting in the chain rubbing on the chainstay when on the smallest rear sprocket – so using the H limit screw, I prevented RD from ever shifting onto the smallest rear sprocket (so it’s used only to lock the others in place, and the cassette is effectively a 7-speed 14-15-17-19-24-28-34 one).
There are also 7 speed freewheels made by Shimano, with 13-34 gearing. The quality is quite good (durable, reliable), but I don’t suppose they are super light. And going in that direction would probably require swapping your rear derailleur for a new one. Like Shimano Claris SG (mid-sized cage), or Acera / Deore MTB SGS (long cage).
Other option, you mentioned, is swapping the cranks. Going with a triple (50-39-30, or a MTB one like 44-34-24) would require replacing the front derailleur. Well, probably the rear derailleur as well, to avoid the chain from getting slack if using small-small gearing combos (as discussed here under “4. Rear derailleur chain wrap capacity not big enough“).
On the other hand, a “smaller” double would allow for everything except the cranks to remain the same. 50-34 is a “tricky” combo with modern cassettes, the ones that start with 11, or 12 teeth. With such cassettes, the 50T large chain is too large to be used on flats with the smallest 3 sprockets, while the 34 T chainring is too small to be used with anything other than the smallest 3 sprockets. So one ends up riding severely cross chained quite often. However, those, more reasonable (in my opinion at least), cassettes that start with 13, or 14 teeth can be used nicely on the flats, from the larger 50 T chainring, without the chain being too crossed. So it might be a good match.
There are also cranks that have 46-30 T combo. Those provide a bit more “universal” large chainring, while the smaller one can be useful for extremely long steep climbs, when one just gets their “legs full” (exhausted).
These modern cranks are often sold and marketed as 10, or 11 (or even 12) speed ones. But, especially if using friction shifters, I would be surprised to notice any kind of problem. Sure – when using the smaller chainring, and the outer part of the cassette (smallest 1/3 of the sprockets, riding severely cross chained), depending on your chainstay length, you might have the chain rub against the largest chainring. But that is the situation when you should shift to the larger chainring anyway (further discussed in the 5th chapter of my article about bicycle chainline). For a full disclosure – I haven’t tested this with any 12 speed cranks. But unless we’re talking about the new MTB stuff, designed for a different kind of chain, I’d expect it to work as well (a discussion on Shimano 12 speed MTB cranks for specially designed chain).
Relja