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Questions & Answers

For general questions, I recommend asking on bikeforums.net – the best cycling-related forum in the world. There I actively participate under the “Bike Gremlin” username. Also, many other experts offer help and advice there, so You benefit from getting 2nd opinions. You are also most likely to get a timely response (within a day or two), at least from other knowledgeable members, even if I don’t manage.

If you have any questions regarding a particular article, you can use the comment section below the article. Also, at the bottom of this page, in the comment section, you can ask what you wish to know. With a suggestion to first try a website search – your question may have already been answered:

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18 thoughts on “Questions & Answers”

  1. Hi Relja
    Can I use Campagnolo Centaur 10 speed, chain and derailleur, on an Elite Zumo smart trainer with a Shimano 10 speed cassette?
    Many Thanks in advance.
    Kenny

    Reply
    • Campagnolo 10 speed cassettes have different pitch, while their 10 speed chains have different width, compared to Shimano 10 speed ones.
      So I would not expect it to work very well, but haven’t tried it. Sometimes, close enough works satisfactory, sometimes not. In this case – I would expect shifting to be rather poor.

  2. I am looking for a Suspension seat post for a Raleigh witch is 36.1 But none of the post match that size

    Reply
    • While I like to think I’m a wizard – making 20+ year old bicycles and computers up and running – suspension stuff is out of my area of expertise. 🙂

      Hopefully, an expert on the topic will come across these comments and provide a shopping link.

      An alternative could be using a shim to fit a smaller diameter seatpost – if such can be sourced (both the seatpost, and a matching shim).
      Shim can also be machined. With a DIY option of cutting a can of beer, or some poisonous sugar filled “soft drink” (yack! 🙂 ), making shims out of that, to match the difference in diameters. Minding it doesn’t slip inside the seat tube (hard to take out later) – leave some “lips” protruding out and aside, to keep it in place. And minding not to cut oneself when making and fitting it.

  3. Hello. I have a few Sram max shift 3.0, 7 x 3 grip shifters that are new im trying to use up in my shop. I have in-fact through the years used these with some types of shimano rear derailleurs, but do not remember which shimano, i think tourney, mabye alivio. My question is for an atb which Derailleur from shimano, least expensive can i use for the rear with my last few new pairs of sram grip shift shifters? Sorry for any confusion. I have always been a shiman person, i just want to know how i can use sram with shimano without breaking the bank on a sram derailleur. Thanks much

    Reply
    • I’m not sure which standard that shifter is. As I’ve noted in the rear shifter compatibility article, 7 speed SRAM shifters were made in a Shimano compatible cable pull configuration, as well as using SRAM’s “1:1” cable pull.

      If the shifter is 1:1, it will only work with SRAM 1:1 rear derailleurs (and, based on my calculation, but I haven’t tested this – with Shimano 11 speed road bicycle rear derailleurs, and Tiagra 4700 10 speed road RD).
      If the shifter is a “Shimano compatible”, then it should work with Shimano rear derailleurs for 6 to 9 speed, as well as with non-Tiagra 4700 10 speed road RD-s (but not with 10+ speed MTB RD-s).

  4. Can you help? Thanks.

    I have a new Tiagra triple front rapid fire shifter and an existing Shimao ALTUS front changer mech e-fitting (ie via bottom bracket). I have wired everything up and I cannot change over three chain rings. To change over two rings works but not three. I have adjusted the limit screws and the tightness of the cable. I cannot get it to work. What am I doing wrong? I have seen that rapid fire shifters are normally compatible with most front changers. Thanks very much, Andrew

    Reply
    • Tiagra 4700 (newest, 10-speed) shifters pull a lot more cable than the other, pre Tiagra, and most MTB front shifters.
      So Tiagra shifter could be pulling a lot more cable per shift, than the front derailleur (Altus) needs. That could be causing the problem.
      While first click can be configured to properly move the FD to the mid. chainring, the 2nd click probably wants to pull the FD too far out – so FD stop prevents the movement, and shifter can’t reach it’s click point, to stay in gear.

      If it is adjusted so that the 2nd click (pulling cable) puts the FD right over the largest chainring, then I would expect the first shift-down to move the FD too much, so it doesn’t stop at the middle chainring.

      I would get a Tiagra FD to solve the problem. Or choose some other front shifter.

      See the article on front shifter compatibility (including the last chapter “Trim option”).

  5. i usually use either velox or zefal rim cloth adhesive rim tapes as these have never failed on me,the secret to using these rim tapes is get ones that go past the rim holes well,if you use the skinny 13mm ones they will slip past the rim holes,17mm ones are good for most road bikes.at the moment there seems to be a worldwide shortage of these rim tapes and just wondering if any readers have a home made solution.

    Reply
  6. Please could you help? I have a road bike with shimano 7 speed cassette and twin chainset, indexed gears.
    I am struggling to find bits to renew the drive chain . . . . I have located a chain , and a cassette. I am struggling to find 130 bcd chainrings withbthe correct number of teeth. Well I have found some, but they say they are for 10/11 speed. Are rhese going to be ok with my set up. If not what issues would i experience?
    Thank you

    Reply
    • Hi Chris,

      Are you replacing only the chainrings – while keeping the cranks?

      In that case, I’d just make sure that the new chainrings can be bolted securely and give it a test ride. Expecting it to work OK.

      Relja

  7. you can buy new 8 speed chainrings that are 130 bcd ,7 speed and 8 speed chainrings are the same,130 bcd and 135 bcd are very common sizes.most teeth sizes are available,10 or 11 speed should still work but those chainrings will be thinner.

    Reply
  8. you could even replace the whole crankset complete with chainrings,sometimes that actually works out cheaper

    Reply
    • there are alot of retro style remakes being made in double chainrings complete with cranks,the 7 speed alloy cranksets can usually be found on ebay,some bike shops have them too.type in retro parts when chasing up spares for older retro style bikes,google will find all parts on the market,if it does not show up in google then most likely the part is no longer on the market.

  9. Hey guys new to riding again. Just bought a small ebike offline from China. Its has seatpost clamp measures 34.9 but there are no measurements on actual seatpost. Original shipped to me bent and now its too hard to adjust seat height when riding and putting in my car and needs to be replaced.
    I have no idea what size post I need to buy and which one is strong and tall enough to fit my frame of 6’4 and 370lbs.
    I was looking at Thompson Elite, Thudbuster Lt, Ritchey, and Syntace. But I don’t know which to go with to hold my weight and is tall enough for comfortable ride.

    Also, need to extend factory handlebars because they are too short as well. Need new stock bars for low-end HD Tea electric bike I found on ebay.

    Thanks for any help and advice you can offer a newbie
    Char

    Reply
    • Hi Char,

      As I like to say: “One good measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions.” For more details, see:
      Seatpost diameter standards and how to measure them

      After you are certain which size (diameter) you need, measure which length you need. For that you should consider:
      Minimum seatpost insertion length
      I.e. add that to the amount of the seatpost sticking out of the frame.

      Once you have those important measurements, you can start looking for a matching seatpost that is strong enough.

      Ritchey generally makes decent quality stuff – but avoid their “WCS” (World Championship Series) components since they are built to be as light as possible, at the expense of any “needless” extra weight (and strength).

      Generic, cheap, Chinese-made steel seatposts can be heavy but very strong (though not always, unfortunately).

      What I often do is go to a local bicycle shop I trust and plainly ask “what’s the cheapest that’s any good.” They usually know which models are least often returned.

      That’s especially effective nowadays when most manufacturers change models each year, making them sometimes better, sometimes worse. Bike shops that sell a lot of parts get feedback relatively quickly.

      Hope this helps. 🙂

      Relja

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