This post explains some basic “rules” for posting questions and/or comments on the website (same goes for the BikeGremlin Youtube, Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter channels).
1. How to post a question?
First try a website search – you can find the answers for most of the questions in one of the articles here. The search is a “smart” one, powered by Google, so it usually finds the articles that give good answers to your queries:
If the search didn’t help, to post a question/comment, use the comment section that is at the bottom of each post (or on the questions and answers page), entering a name (any name, so it can be practically anonymous), and using a valid e-mail address (which isn’t shown publicly).
When asking a question, be specific and give enough information, using correct terms – so that it’s certain we are both talking about the same thing / bicycle part. For help, see the names of bicycle parts and bicycle terms glossary.
Also, when referring to speeds, use the form: “largest front and third smallest rear sprocket”, or similar, because “5th speed”, 12th etc. are often not precise enough.
Comments are held for moderation, in order to prevent spamming, or trolling. After a comment is approved by an administrator, it will appear on the website. This usually happens within hours, but could take a day, or more – depending on work and vacation schedule.
2. What kinds of questions to ask?
However stupid this may sound, it needs some explaining.
One of the reasons this site was made was to help people. When “discovering” the world of cycling and mechanics, the author had lots of questions, with relatively hard to find answers. So most of those are now answered on this site. Some basic, some “advanced”.
Generally, there aren’t stupid questions, just stupid answers. However: before posting a question, look for the answer on the website. It is nicely structured, by topics, and has a search field in the top right corner of every page. If the required content is not found, try typing the question in the search box and see if there is an answer, before posting a question.
This especially goes for asking about buying a particular (2nd hand) bicycle – it is impossible to look over about a 100 adds each day and answer each person. There is a section with buying tips. This is where most buying questions are answered, such as: what kind of bicycle suits my needs, what size, how to check a 2nd hand (used) bicycle, what groupset to buy, etc
Questions about things that aren’t explained on the site, concrete questions for further explanations etc, as well as (constructive) criticism are more than welcome.
3. My comment is not approved!?
If a comment is not approved, even after a few days, do check if it contains one, or more of the following:
- One or more links with adds. A “cleverly” asked “question” that is in fact a commercial is not acceptable. Also called spamming.
- Pictures and/or words that are rude, or pornographic. This goes for account “avatars” as well.
- Insults to other users, whether using “bad” words, or content that is disrespectful, or insulting.
- The question has already been answered on the site.
Trolling vs (constructive) criticism:
Trolling condemns what it doesn’t understand / criticism asks for clarification.
Trolling is spoken with a cruel wit and sarcastic tongue / criticism’s voice is kind, honest, and objective.
Trolling is negative / criticism is positive, even when pointing out mistakes, or flaws.
Trolling is vague and general / criticism is concrete and specific.
Trolling looks for flaws in the writer as well as the writing / criticism addresses only what is on the page.
4. Why is this (all) necessary?
In order to keep the site informative and not clogged with adds, insults, or “junk” – with only relevant questions and topics kept in the comments section to help others, so people don’t have to go through pages of useless data to find what they’re looking for.
Note: further comments on this page have been disabled, for better readability – please use the Q&A page instead.
11 thoughts on “Posting questions, or comments”
“Bid spelling” please correct to “Bad spelling”
Thank you for the correction.
That mistake was made deliberately. Will edit it by placing quotation marks to make that more obvious.
If you see any other mistakes, do let us know. Sorry for this misunderstanding.
I’m an old fellow who has been riding for decades. My wife and I have been enjoying our Santana Tandem as we’ve been rolling into our retirement years. We recently had a fall that cracked a rear derailleur and caused me to consider a different combination of components. The bike is set up with Shimano XTR cranks and Campagnolo Ergo (8-spd) shifters. I am trying to use a Shimano XTR cassette and wanted to replace the broken Campy Record RD with a Shimano medium cage XTR RD.
Will I need to change the cable pull or routing on the RD?
Any considerations or cations I need to take?
I am sure this is remedial for most folks. I appreciate your site and experiences.
Shimano RD and cassette will require matching Shimano shifters as well.
Campagnolo shifter cables are a bit thinner than Shimano cables, but while Shimano’s won’t fit Campagnolo, vice-versa is possible (though I would use the opportunity to replace the cables at lest, if not the housing too).
Compatibility in more detail:
Very heavy rider (275 lbs) looks for best wheel set that combines reasonable weight excellent durability and reasonable cost. I ride a Kestrel Legend carbon bike (Rim breaks) with Shimano Ultegra components. Ride 700-25 tires. 130mm rear drop out and 100mm front. Had Mavic open pro rims 32 spoke constant breaking spokes. What wheel set and spoke type and count would you recommend? The Mavic open pros I have are only 860g in weight. If possible I would like a wheel set not too much heavier than that. I found that Velocity 700c Deep V sets with 36 hole count are about 1160 g in weight only about a half a pound more than the Mavic pros. Finally what Hubs would you recommend? I love the Shimano Ultegras I have and would like something comparable or better appreciate any suggestions and advise. Apologies for long post
It’s cool posting a long post – since you’ve provided most of the information needed for gaining useful advice.
I’ll “dissect” the answer into numbered sections, that can later be referred to in case any further clarification is needed.
I had discussed wheel component choice in the post about bicycle wheel building basics.
1) Spokes & nipples
I would recommend “double butted” spokes, 2mm wide at the ends, 1.8 mm wide in the middle, by SAPIM (Force), or by DT Swiss (Competition) – Amazon affiliate links for product description and prices, but I would recommend supporting the local bicycle shop if those are available there.
Brass nipples by Sapim, or DT Swiss, 12mm long. Aluminium ones are a bit lighter, but not as strong and durable.
2) Spoke count and lacing
36 spokes laced 4 across are a safe bet for heavier loads. You are likely to get some spoke head overlap lacing that way, but it generally doesn’t cause problems with most hubs. Though it can make replacing a broken spoke a bit more difficult, if it’s the one who’s head is overlapped.
32 spokes laced 3 across can be fine, if a rim is strong and if the above mentioned swagged spokes are used.
It goes without saying that whichever components are chosen, the wheel should be properly built, with optimal and even spoke tension. Otherwise, even the best components won’t cut it.
The 36 holed deep section rims mentioned look like a strong construction.
Though, the used Mavic are far from bad – I would try lacing them with swagged spokes, then see how they handle.
Relatively recently I worked with H Plus Son TB14 rims – they are relatively “shallow”, yet surprisingly strong.
So I checked out what else they have to offer, found the deep section Achetype model – haven’t seen it live, don’t know about the pricing, but it looks strong:
Shimano Ultegra hubs are of very good quality and if they are within budget (if swapping for 36 spokes, if staying with 32 they are already at hand, of course), I’d use them.
5) My personal opinion
I prefer durability and reliability, hence, since I’m not racing, always rather take more weight, if it provides fewer (roadside) repairs and problems down the road.
Rotating mass is an often talked about thing in the cycling world, but it’s way overrated when judging performance.
Good quality 28 mm tyres for road bikes are one of the best inventions since the wheel! 🙂 Continental Grand Prix 4 Seasons, or Continental Grand Prix 4000s II (haven’t tried the new 5000 model).
Smoother ride, better grip on rough paths and in the rain, less troubles for the rims when hitting a pothole, with minimal amount of extra weight.
Can’t say if the smoother ride they provide helps spokes get less stress, but I’m sure it doesn’t hurt.
09-29-2020 – I have not seen any mention here about the importance of chain catchers when using triple
cranksets. It is absolutely critical to have a chain catcher mounted on the down tube to prevent the inevitable
dropping of the chain to the bottom bracket when shifting from the middle chainwheel down to the inside small
chainwheel. This shift will likely be done at slow speed when already starting the climb. When the chain drops at
slow speed you have little time before you stop moving and not enough time to release your shoe from the pedal
before you fall over onto the road where an overtaking car can/will do you much harm.
I use the “K-Edge Clamp Road Chain Catcher” which is very well made and has made my downshifts safe and
worry free after three very scary and hurtful falls before I mounted it. It is expensive but very much worth the
peace of mind you will have when downshifting. You can see it here:
In around 30 years of riding geared bikes, most of which have been triples, I haven’t had any serious problems as described in this comment.
Good front derailleur tuning, including the low limit screw setting should prevent most chain drops.
I understand the described scenario, but can’t remember ever having such problems, even with clipless pedals.
Even if I got that, rather expensive, product for free, it is very likely I wouldn’t even bother mounting it – just don’s really see the need for it, as far as my bikes are concerned.
Different people have different experiences, and different opinions – and this is mine.
I have a 3 wheel bike w/ 7 speed rear gear. I need to change the gear on the crank to allow for easier pedaling. I need help with the type/kind of gear to use and how to make the change. Thanks.
Smaller chainrings up front provide for lower (easier) gearing.
This post explains bicycle gearing (gear ratios).
Further comments on this page have been disabled, for better readability – please use the Q&A page instead.
Comments are closed.