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Compatibility [06] Front shifters

This post explains bicycle front shifter compatibility, i.e. which shifters can be mixed with which front derailleurs, chains and chainrings.

Before you start, to avoid any misunderstanding:
please take the 5 minutes needed to read the compatibility articles use instructions.

If you have any questions (or additions and corrections), please use the BikeGremlin forum’s compatibility section:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/forums/bike-compatibility/

Front shifter lever is used to control the front derailleur, that is to change gears in the front. There are numerous designs of various manufacturers. However, for compatibility considerations, the only important factor is the amount of cable pull. It should match the front derailleur (FD in the rest of the post) required amount of cable pull that the shifter is paired width.

There are three major types of front shifters: friction shifters, double and triple shifters. Compatibility will be explained by these groups.


1. Friction front shifters

With friction shifters it is irrelevant what type of FD is paired – each will work with each. They pull enough cable for full FD movement range – regardless of the FD manufacturer, or type (double vs triple, road vs MTB). 


2. Double front shifters (indexed)

They are indexed with just one click – for shifting between the two front chainrings. Tensioning the cable moves FD and chain to the larger front chainring, while clicking to release the cable changes back to the smaller chainring.

Double shifters can be used with a triple FD, but they still only have one click. That means that, if there is a triple crankset, one chainring will not be used – either the smallest, or the largest.

Most double front shifters can be used with most FDs. Mixing different models of shifters from the same brand is no problem. Even mixing one manufacturer’s shifters with another manufacturer’s FDs is not a problem. Mixing road shifters with MTB FDs (and vice versa) works fine as well.


3. Triple front shifters (indexed)

They have two clicks, for changing gears between three chainrings.

Triple shifters work fine with double FDs, but one click will be unused. FD movement should be limited with limit screws (this should be done regardless of the shifter used on all derailleurs), so that shifter’s extra click doesn’t produced any effect and doesn’t move the derailleur.

In order to avoid damaging the shifter in case of moving lever hard, it is best to set the triple shifter on a double so that maximal cable tensioning puts FD over the larger chainring. That way, there are just two clicks left – first one will drop the FD to the smaller chainring, while the second will just loosen the cable, but the FD will not move because it is limited by limit screws.

The other possible setup, so that shifter is in the middle position when FD is on the larger chainring means that second click will drop the FD to the smaller chainring. The problem is when FD is on the larger chainring, there is still lever movement left to tighten the cable. Since FD is already on the large chainring, limited with a limit screw, this can cause damage to the shifter if the lever is pulled hard, since the cable will not move.

Mixing brands and models is the same as for double shifters – most combinations work fine.


Road vs MTB front shifters

Road double shifters can often be combined with MTB FDs and vice versa.

Road triple  shifters with MTB FDs and vice versa can be mixed. Tuning is a bit more tricky with some models, since there are three speeds, not just two, but usually works fine.


Combining front shifters and FDs of various manufacturers

Each should work with each. Friction shifters always, while indexed ones (whether double, or triple) in most cases.


Trim option

It was said before that double shifters have only one click, while triple have two. This, however, is not the whole truth. Many manufacturers and models have the trimming option. That is like a small click that doesn’t change gear, but moves FD cage slightly left-or right. It is used to avoid chain rubbing the FD cage when riding cross chained.

One exception in compatibility are Shimano road 11 speed shifters. They will work nicely only with Shimano road 11 speed FDs and Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 speed road FDs. Same goes for Tiagra 4700 10 speed shifters. Newest Campagnolo 11 speed system: Revolution 11+ (older one is Revolution 11) also requires matching (Revolution 11+) shifters and derailleurs.

Another exception is the new “gravel” group (with hydraulic brakes): Shimano GRX. Caple pull wise it’s the same as Tiagra 4700.

Compatibility posts are also available in eBook (printable and Kindle) and paperback editions on Amazon:

Bicycle drivetrain compatibility book
Bicycle drivetrain compatibility book

If you have any questions (or additions and corrections), please use the BikeGremlin forum’s compatibility section:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/forums/bike-compatibility/

The existing comments posted under this article (questions and answers) have been moved to this BikeGremlin forum thread:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/threads/compatibility-06-front-shifters-article-comments.123/

33 thoughts on “Compatibility [06] Front shifters”

  1. Hello,

    I was hoping you could help. I have a Tiagra 4700 10s crankset. The rest of the bike is 9s drivetrain except my front deraiuler which is 6s and old (Currently using friction shifters for FD). Im looking to get a new front derailleur and eventually sti shifters to replace the downtube ones currently equipped.

    My question is if I get a Tiagra FD, can I use Sora 9s sti shifters. This would be ideal to save money over buying a new cassette, RD and chain, but if its recommend to upgrade all to 10s then I will just have to consider that before replacing my downtube shifters.

    Thank you very much for your help,
    Dylan

    • Or after reading more of your posts, would it be better to buy a 9 speed fd? Thanks

    • STI shifters are a great improvement ergonomically – no doubt about that. However – they are a lot more costly, and a lot less durable/robust, compared to down tube friction shifters.

      Tiagra 4700 FD will not work very well with Sora shifters. It has pull ratio compatible with new, 11 speed road shifters (they changed both the rear, and the front derailleur cable pull ratio with Tiagra 4700 and 11 speed road groups).

      Having said that – DT shifters are rather light – you could use STI-s, while keeping the front DT shifter. 🙂 Frankenstein, yes, but it would work wonderfully.

      Another option is to keep the current front derailleur and just mount the STI-s – 9 speed ones should work fine with the 6 speed FD.

      Now, there are older 10 speed shifters (105 5600, and 5700 for example), but the new Tiagra 4700 10 speed system shifts a lot more precisely (probably thanks to a lot longer cable pull).

      Having said all that, whenever someone mentions an “upgrade” I always ask:
      What does the current system lack?
      10 speed system, compared to 9 speed one will:
      – Give one more gear ratio between the highest and the lowest gear.
      – Allow a bit better rear shifting under load (though that’s something to be avoided, unless racing, or even then unless it’s critical).
      – Shift for a split second faster in the rear (and, with the new Tiagra 4700 – be a bit more “precise”, though 9 speed stuff also works very well, so that’s really marginal).
      – Cost more when it comes to chain and cassette replacement.

      In my experience, good quality tyres are among the better upgrades one can get (like Continental Grand-Prix 4 seasons, or Continental Grand Prix 4000s / 4000s II, or 5000 – haven’t tried the 5000 myself – the links are Amazon affiliate, but I’d recommend supporting the local LBS and shopping there).

    • First off, thank you for all the information!

      Next, I would rather not upgrade to all 10s because the 9s setup works just fine for me and doesn’t lack anything currently except for desired but not necessarily needed, sti-s. I just wasn’t sure if upgrading would be the best option to match the 10s crankset. Ideally, I would be able to leave everything alone and upgrade to sti shifters, which it sounds like I can do. Also it sounds like for my birthday i’ll be asking for some new tyres!

  2. Hi Relja.
    I Want to buy a shimano 3×9 road shift lever, rear derailled are Sora 3000 gs 3x9v with cassette 11/34T Alivio, but i have a problem with front derailler because my bike has top swing and most shimano front derailler are down swing.
    Have a suggest?
    Thanks

    • Ciao Alfredo,

      If your seat tube has a round, symmetrical profile, you should be able to mount a bottom swing FD that is compatible with 3×9 road shifter levers (STI-s).

      If it is not, or if something else on the frame (or the bike) gets in the way of mounting a FD clamp higher, then I’m afraid I don’t have a solution that is compatible. Maybe some other website visitor will have an idea. It’s also worth asking on bikeforums.net.

      Relja

  3. Hi! Your website is a great source of information. One thing I’m not too sure about and would like your opinion on:

    I have a 2008 Scott SUB20 with Deore M530 3×9 group set. I would like to change the bike from flat bar to road/gravel style. Will the Sora 3-speed shifter work with my FD-M530 DeoreLX ? I can’t seem to find the cable pull ratio’s.

    Also, if I go with the Sora 3×9 road shifters, are the (cable) brakes compatible with the V-brakes that are on my bike?

    • Hi Sim,

      I would expect the FD to not work very well with the STIs.
      Will the poor front shifting be acceptable?
      The only thing to do is to give it a try, and if it’s not, look for a triple road shifter (like Shimano Sora, or Claris).

      Regarding brakes – no, V-brakes will not work well with STIs.
      You could use Mini-V-brakes though.

      What I did was use only road-bar brake levers, and mount bar-end friction shifters.
      That’s my choice for robustness and simplicity, for my own bike(s). 🙂

  4. Thank you for the information!
    Adding a Sora FD and mini-brakes to my shopping list won’t be a deal breaker 🙂 just figuring out what I need.

  5. First of all thanks for the great article.
    As far as you know, do a deore m591 have the same cable pull of a deore m6000 (same 3×10)
    I have to replace the FD 591 to put a front pull m6000 and I would like to keep the 591 shifter
    Thanks in advance

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