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Compatibility [05] Front derailleurs

This post explains bicycle front derailleur compatibility of various makes and models. For a detailed explanation of front derailleur (FD in the rest of this post) mounting systems, cable routing and capacity, read this article: Front derailleur.

Before you start, to avoid any misunderstanding:
please take the 5 minutes needed to read the compatibility articles use instructions.

FDs differ in several categories (they are all explained with pictures in the above linked Front derailleur article):

  1. Mounting: braze on, clamp mounted, or direct mounted
  2. Cable routing: top pull, bottom pull, or bidirectional pull (double pull)
  3. Big front chainring teeth number that FD is designed for and mounting angle
  4. Number of front chainrings: double vs triple
  5. FD cage rotation relative to the clamp position: high clamp, low clamp, or the new Shimano side-swing
  6. MTB vs Road FD
  7. Number of speeds (number of rear sprockets and chain width) FD is designed for
  8. Exceptions


1. Mounting

FDs are made for mounting on frame fixed braze on, or come with clamps for mounting on the seat tube. If FD comes with a clamp, seat tube diameter must match the clamp diameter. A newer standard, used on mountain bikes is the direct mount, it is explained at the end of this chapter.

If a frame comes with a brazed on FD mount, in order to mount a clamp on FD, the frame mount must be removed (cut off). In some (rare) cases the clamp can be put above/below the frame mount, so it can stay, as long as it doesn’t interfere with FD movement and proper mounting relative to the front chainrings.

Frame with a front derailleur braze on holder.
Frame with a front derailleur braze on holder.

Standard clamp (and seat tube) sizes are:
1 1/8″ (28.6 mm)
1 1/4″ (31.8 mm) and
1 3/8″ (34.9 mm)

If a FD is a braze on type and the frame doesn’t have a FD hanger (or the frame hanger is too low/high for the size of front chainrings used), a separate clamp can be bought so that FD can be fixed to it. This is a much more universal type of FD.

Front derailleur clamp. It is used when a braze on front derailleur needs to be mounted on a frame without derailleur holders.
Front derailleur clamp.
It is used when a braze on front derailleur needs to be mounted on a frame without derailleur holders.

Direct mount FDs can often be fitted to a frame without direct mount attachment holes using an adapter, enabling the FD to be secured by a (threaded) BB shell. There are also adapters for frames with a round seat tube cross section of a standard width, so that a direct mount FD can be attached to them.

Older system, fixed with the bottom bracket.
Older system, fixed with the bottom bracket.
Direct mount (H0, DM)
Direct mount (H0, DM)
Adapter for mounting direct mount FDs on a frame that hasn't got the required mounts.
Adapter for mounting direct mount FDs on a frame that hasn’t got the required mounts.

Frames with exotic seat tubes (either by cross section that isn’t round, or by diameter that varies from the three standar sizes), often have FD mounts made on the frame. If, for any reason, those mounts can’t be used (damaged, or not fitting the FD at hand), an adapter can be used – held in place by the BB shell – for frames with a threaded BB at least.


2. Cable routing

There are FDs that have a cable attached from below, from above, or from any of the two. Frames usually have only one type of cable routing.

Double pull FD. Enables routing from either side. Here, two cables are routed, from the top and from the bottom. Of course, only one cable is mounted in real life - either from the top, or from the bottom. Never two! :)
Double pull FD.
Enables routing from either side. Here, two cables are routed, from the top and from the bottom. Of course, only one cable is mounted in real life – either from the top, or from the bottom. Never two! 🙂

With double routed FDs this isn’t important, but for the other models, if the FD’s cable routing doesn’t match the frame design, there is a special adapter that can reverse the cable direction.

FD cable routing adapter. Enables reversal of cable routing to the front derailleur.
FD cable routing adapter.
Enables reversal of cable routing to the front derailleur.

In the picture above, the frame has cable routing so that FD cable comes from above. FD is designed for bottom cable routing. The adapter with a wheel onto which the cable is placed is mounted on the seat tube below the FD, so that the cable can go over it and up to the FD. Everyone is happy. 🙂

Almost all the road FDs have bottom pull cable routing, while most MTB FDs have either top, or dual cable pull. 


3. Teeth number (the size) of the largest front chainring a)
and mounting angle b)

a) teeth number

FD is curved in order to align with the curve of the largest front chainring. A typical MTB chainring has 42 teeth, while road bike chainrings often come with 53 teeth. A smaller chainring requires the FD to have a much more curve in order to align (and vice versa).

Well placed FD that perfectly aligns with the chainring shape.
Well placed FD that perfectly aligns with the chainring curve.

Imagine in the picture above that the FD cage is shaped to match the middle chainring. It would have to be mounted either too high, or it’s rear part would bump into the big chainring, since it has too sharp a curve.

FDs are usually made to match chainrings with 42, 48, 50, or 53 teeth. If FD and large chainring are mismatched for a couple of teeth, there’s no problems, it’s close enough. If, however, a difference is large, the following problems occur:

  • Chainring has a lot more teeth than the FD is designed for: like explained above. FD will have to be mounted too high, which will make shifting slow, poor and might cause chain rub on the rear lowest part of the FD after shifting onto the smallest chainring.
  • Chainring has a lot less teeth than the FD is designed for: front part of FD will be correctly positioned, while the rear part of the cage will remain high up, and the chainring curves sharply down. It will not align. This will not hurt shifting, but will cause a lot of chain rub on the FD cage – as soon as some shifting gears in the rear sprockets causes minimal amount of cross chaining.

b) mounting angle

Seat tube angle (onto which FD is mounted) is usually about 70 to 73 degrees for road bikes, while MTBs usually have a bit steeper seat tubes (closer to vertical vertical compared to road bike ones), of around 75 or more degrees. If a FD designed for a more vertical tube is mounted on a tube that has a less vertical angle, the effect will be similar to that of combining a FD designed for a lot smaller chainring, with a chainring that is bigger. And vice versa.

Though this is a bit misleading. For a full disclosure: modern road and MTB frames don’t really differ all that much by seat tube angles. What differs is the angle between the chainstay and the seat tube. MTB bikes have that angle a lot smaller, compared to road bikes (by roughly 5, or more degrees), and that is the angle that matters as far as front derailleurs are concerned (see the next paragraph, below the picture).

A FD designed for a lot steeper tube is put on a more vertical one. The rear part of the cage is too high, even though FD is mounted at the correct height.
A FD designed for a less vertically angled tube is put on a more vertical one.
The rear part of the cage is too high, even though FD is mounted at the correct height.

It is worth noting (thanks to Drew for pointing it out) that frame manufacturers provide seat tube angle as measured from horizontal (which matters for riding position fitting), while Shimano (for one) notes their front derailleur angle as the one between the seat tube and the chainstay (which actually is what matters for the front derailleurs). So those (“Shimano”) angles are often 61 to 66° degrees for road FDs, and 66 to 69° for MTB front derailleurs.

Similar problems can occur if the mounting position isn’t correct – happens on some special, or custom built frames.

A frame on which, because of the low rear axle, FD must be placed a bit behind the seat tube. A specific case.
A frame on which, because of the low rear axle, FD must be placed a bit behind the seat tube.
A specific case.

If a FD is a braze on mounted type, this can be corrected with made adapters:

Adapter for changing FD angle to a steeper one and for moving it to the rear.
Adapter for changing FD angle to a steeper one and for moving it to the rear.


4. Double vs triple

FDs are made in two variants: for double and for triple front chainrings.

Double vs triple FD
Double vs triple FD

Double FD will work with a triple chainring if the difference in teeth number between the smallest and the largest chainring is rather small (which defeats the purpose of a triple chainring though). For example a 34-42-48 chainring. Also, if the operation (movement) of the FD is limited to the two largest chainrings, it can work OK.

Triple FD will work on a double chainring if the difference in teeth number between the chainrings isn’t bigger than 12. One can “get away” with 14 as well, but the lower difference, the better.

Compact cranksets, with two chainrings that vastly differ in size (usually 34-50 combination) will work well only with double FDs with the curve appropriate for the big ring size (50 to 52). Even when using a double FD, it is best to keep the tooth cound difference up to 16 (like with 34-50, or 36-52 chainring combinations).


5. High clamp, low clamp, or side-swing

With older standard for FDs, the cage is below the mount, so that FD cage swings below the FD body. These are the high clamp FDs. Low clamp is a newer Shimano system meant for MTBs with rear suspension. FD cage is practically in line with the mount. This leaves more room for mounting the rear suspension to the seat tube. Previously used terms for this were bottom swing (for high clamp) and top swing (for low clamp), but with the introduction of Shimano side-swing system (explained at the end of this chapter), these terms are no longer precise enough.

Bottom swing FD - standard one - cage is below the FD body
High clamp FD – standard one- cage is below the FD body
Top swing FD - the cage is above the FD body
Low clamp FD- the cage is above the FD body

If the bike has no rear suspension, or there is enough room for a standard FD below the suspension, it is irrelevant which type of FD is mounted (as long as it’s suitable in terms of other explained criteria – angle, size etc.).

The newest Shimano system is the side-swing, where the cage rotates sideways. These FDs can be clamped with a high clamp, low clamp, or using a direct mount system.

Shimano Side-Swing front derailleur
Shimano Side-Swing front derailleur


6. MTB vs road FD

Shimano road and MTB FDs have different cable pull ratios – that is the amount of FD movement for each mm of cable movement. This means that MTB FDs might not work well with indexed road shifters and vice versa.

With double chainrings, this issue can be fixed by adjusting limit screws and it could be made to work. With triple chainrings, it is harder to get it to work properly. However, the FD cage is a lot wider than the chain and triple FDs have just 3 positions, so depending on the particular shifter – FD combination, even that can sometimes be made to work OK.

Having said all this and in spite of officially different cable pull, some FDs work OK with all the shifters, regardless of whether it is road, or MTB. Exception are the Shimano 11 speed road FDs and Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 speed FDs – they have a (vastly) different cable pull (and cable anchor arm), so they are not compatible. So, while this will not shift perfectly, especially with triples, it is worth giving a try and seeing if it’s good enough for one’s criteria – if what one has on hand are mismatched road and mtb shifters and FDs. If it doesn’t work satisfactory, the cheaper option is to find a FD that matches the shifter.


7. Number of speeds

The last AND the least important.  🙂

FDs are made for a certain number of speeds, i.e. number of rear sprockets. The more speeds, the narrower the chain. There are FDs for 6 to 8 speeds, then for 9, 10 and 11 speeds. Cage width is made to match the planned chain width.

FDs for 9 (left) and 10 speeds (right)
FDs for 9 (left)
and 10 speeds (right)

However, since the chain moves left-right on the rear sprockets, FD cage is a lot wider than the chain. That is why it is possible to mount a 10 speed FD and use it with a 6 to 8 speed chain.

FDs are very forgiving in terms of speed number (even in terms of manufacturers), so they can be mixed and matched. One of the few pieces of equipment where it is possible to change a Campagnolo 10 speed with a Shimano 8 speed and it all works.

When a FD for more speeds is put on a chain for fewer speeds, the only bad effect is more chain rub. Since the FD cage is narrower, smaller angling of the chain (when changing gears at the back) will cause it to rub the FD cage. With indexed shifters, a trimming option can help, while with friction shifters this is not an issue.


8. Exceptions

Exception to this rule are Shimano 11 speed road FDs. They will not work very well with anything but Shimano 11 speed road shifters and Shimano Tiagra 4700 10 speed road shifters. Same goes for Tiagra 4700 FDs. Newest Campagnolo 11 speed system: Revolution 11+ (older one is Revolution 11) also requires matching (Revolution 11+) shifters and derailleurs. The reason for incompatibility lies in different cable attachment and amount of needed cable pull per gear change. Why was something that had already worked “fixed” has probably more to do with the marketing, than with the engineering department of the company.

Another exception is the new “gravel” group (with hydraulic brakes): Shimano GRX. Caple pull wise it’s the same as Tiagra 4700.

Related post – Front derailleur:

Bicycle front derailleur (FD). Types of front derailleurs, frame mount standards, FD compatibility...
Bicycle front derailleur (FD). Types of front derailleurs, frame mount standards, FD compatibility…


Compatibility posts are also available in eBook (printable and Kindle) and paperback editions on Amazon:

Bicycle drivetrain compatibility book
Bicycle drivetrain compatibility book

134 thoughts on “Compatibility [05] Front derailleurs”

  1. Hi relja, I recenly bought a m3100 fd side swing for my mt300 crankset (44/32/22). I’ve read on the specs and shimano website that the max teeth for m3100 fd is only 40t. Will this work with my crankset? And does my fd being a side swing have an advantage with the combination I’m planning of? Thank you so much in advance for the answer

    Reply
    • Hi Jeremiah,

      Side swing FD design is about mounting points, tyre clearance, and cable routing.
      In terms of shifting, I don’t think it’s any better, or worse than the rest (all else being equal, matching equipment used etc, of course).

      40 T FD will have its cage with a bit more “sharp” curve, compared to a 44 T chainring. Thus, it will probably have to sit a bit too high, to avoid the cage from hitting the largest chainring when shifting to it. This will not help the shifting and could cause a bit more chain rub in some combinations.
      Can it work OK?
      If you already have it, it’s worth giving it a try and seeing if that’s good enough for you.
      For example: my haul-everything bike has a completely non-matching FD, but I’m not racing, it does the job OK, and I haven’t gotten down to replacing it for years now. 🙂

      Relja

  2. Hi Relja, just wanted to leave a “thank you” comment! In the jungle of FDs, this page was exactly what I needed!! 🙂 BR, Sven

    Reply
  3. Hello Relja, My wife has a Full Claris bike. The thing is that left shifter is too stiff for her if you compare with a Tiagra or 105 for example. Reading and checking, the “problem” there is that the Claris FD is the stiffer than the other models, so the question is, what if I change just the Claris FD with a Tiagra FD and keep all the other things. Should it work? I mean, is a Tiagra FD compatible with a full claris set?

    Reply
    • Sorry, I forgot to ask the last thing. Can I change my full claris set to a Tiagra set but keep the Claris crankset? Is one of the most expensive part so I prefer to avoid that part. Thanks

    • Hi Alfredo,

      I would expect Claris cranks to work with Tiagra groupset.

      Tiagra 10-speed (4700 series) FD will not work very nicely with a Claris shifter.

      Hope that helps. 🙂

      Relja

  4. Hello guys,
    i wan’t to share my exprience:
    I’ve installed:
    FD-M6025-l + FC-M6000-2 (38-28T) + SM-BB52 + GRX ST-RX400 L
    ST-RX400-R + CS-HG50-10 (11-36T) + ST-RX400-R
    It work very well if not perfectly.

    Reply
  5. Great info. Unfortunately it’s a bit above my head as far as answering my actual question.

    I have road bike with 31.8mm clamp-on Tiagra FD-4600. The derailleur is no longer working – I think the spring is broken or the FD is seized and the spring is not strong enough to pull it (I can move by hand, but spring won’t pull it in to the little ring).

    Can I replace the FD without changing the shifter, and if so what would you recommend (I can’t find the FD-4600 anywhere for sale).

    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Curtis,

      Here’s a list of matching FD models, sorted by the order of preference:

      – Older 10-speed (pre-Tiagra 4700), like 105 5700, 10-speed Ultegra etc.

      – Shimano road FD for 9 speeds (like Sora).

      – Shimano road for fewer than 9 speeds (8, 7…).

      Relja

  6. Hi Relja,

    Thanks to the pandemic, i am not able to find a 2X Claris FD but i have access to a SORA 2X FD.
    Could you please let me know if i can use a SORA FD in place of the Claris FD. The remaining components are as below:
    Claris shifters, 8 speed chain,
    Claris 50-34 crankset
    8 speed (11-32T) cassette.

    Hoping to hear from you.
    Thankyou.
    Somaiah

    Reply
  7. These are great articles, especially the exceptions on the 11sp FDs and the Tiagra. Have you done any articles on converting a road bike drivetrain to a MTB drivetrain? Looking for closer gear ratios and an overall lower ratio (I’m on a 2010-ish Specialized Sequoia – wanting to use a MTB crankset).

    Everything mentioned makes sense (using MTB shifters with MTB derailleurs etc.) but it’s difficult to find what MTB FDs will work on a road bike without contacting the chain stays. There’s virtually no specs given on the FD cage lengths so determining this issue before purchasing seems impossible. The more recent Shimano MTB FD cages seem to curve downward more acutely than past road bike FDs, implying they may contact the chain stay when in the lowest chainring. Is that your sense of it too?

    Reply
    • Hi Greg,

      That is a concern, but I’d say it depends on the frame and the chainring size. Not many people do such swaps so I haven’t got tons of data to tell if it’s generally a problem, or not (I suspect it could be a problem, as you’ve noted).

      If modern 46-30 compact cranks don’t offer low enough gearing, there are some pretty huge cassettes that modern RDs, even road bike RDs can handle (like 34 teeth largest sprocket for a mid. cage length road RD).

      Finally, even Shimano still sells triple cranks, STIs and FDs. Mostly in their “lower tier” equipment, but the likes of Claris work quite well, the main downside compared to the more expensive groups is more weight.

      Relja

  8. Thanks Relja. You know I did go from an 11-28 cassette to a 12-30 (which was the most the RD would handle). But with age and steep hills, the gear ratios just seem too tall and also if feels like their a wider set of ratios. My ‘urban’ MTB setup, if I feel a like the gear I’m in is a little to easy or difficult, I’m usually just one shift away from the perfect gear (for that terrain). This road bike always feels like I’m doing a lot of shifting to find a gear that feels right and it sort of does but sort of doesn’t feel right.

    I am looking at a Shimano Deore Triple (FC-M6000 3) which ‘may’ work but then I introduce chainline differences, derailleur differences (and chainstay interference). Sigh. . . I’m getting a better sense of a new term I’ve just learned in this search, “Frankenbike.” : )

    Thanks for the input – very helpful stuff you write on.

    Reply
  9. Hello Greg,
    i have a 2019 Sequoia and I have done something very similar to what you ask.
    I’ve installed:

    FD-M6025-l + FC-M6000-2 (38-28T) + SM-BB52 + GRX ST-RX400 L
    ST-RX400-R + CS-HG50-10 (11-36T) + RD-RX400

    As you can see i mixed both grx lever and rear derailleurs with mtb front derailleur and crankset and It work very well if not perfectly.

    Reply
    • Thanks Marco, this is sort of what I have in mind, though I want to retain a triple front chainring setup. Having a hard time finding a short-cage FD and the may be the hurdle I can’t get over.

  10. hello Relja,

    as there is lack of some components now due to coronavirus , I intend to use Shimano 10 speed GRX front derailleur FD-RX400 with 11 speed series Shimano GRX shifter ST- RX600.
    as 10 speed series shifter ST- RX400 will be available in – they say – few months, at least.
    I suppose that will work without problems, just it is about 25% more expensive……

    what is Your opinion please – do You agree with me ?
    Thanks , kind regards, Eduard.

    Reply
    • Hi Eduard,

      Yes, I would expect it to work fine with 11-speed GRX shifters. In spite of what Shimano says.
      Haven’t tried that combo though.

  11. Hi Good Sir!

    I hope you can help me with my build. My frame has a top pull for its FD. And I’m looking for 2x road FDs that are top pull. But I mostly see the available ones as down pull and stores or even online stores where Im from don’t have the Fd Cable Routing Adjuster/Adapter to work from a down pull to a top pull.

    I have been suggested the CX70 but that is also not available in my country. And I have read in the comments above as you mentioned that it can only accommodate 46T as its largest.

    Are there any versions of the Claris/Sora/Tiagra that happen to be top pull FDs?

    Reply
    • Hi Guan,

      Without a top-pull derailleur available, and without a cable-routing adjuster available, I’m really out of ideas.

      Shimano CX70 FD is available in bottom-pull and top-pull versions, and it fits chainrings from 46 to 52 teeth.

      Where did I say it takes only 46 teeth? I should correct that if it’s the case.

      Note that CX70 will not work with the new Tiagra 4700 10-speed, GRX, and 11-speed road shifters, but it should work with older style road shifters for up to 10 speeds like Sora, older Tiagra (4600), 10-speed 105 (5700) etc.

  12. Hi Relja!

    Thanks for replying. I dont know how to reply to yout specific comment so Ill just do a new one.

    Sorry about the misunderstanding, it is probably I that has read something wrong about the 46T limit for the CX70 FD.

    My last resort now is to use a Top Pull Altus MD370 FD (I have read somewhere that 12T is the difference with the middle and big chainring). Which has the 48T max limit. I am contemplating now if I should still use my current 3X micronew STI, or if I should switch to a 2x instead.

    Since the Altus MD370 happens to be a 3x, I plan on just using the first two clicks. So in theory, from middle to big chainring (48-36T, following the 12T rule difference).

    I would be using a 3x ixf crank and putting the 48-36T chainrings manually, excluding the smallest chainring. In turn having it as a 2x.

    Should I keep the current 3x Micronew STI (in order to follow the 3x FD) or should I switch to a 2x instead? since I dont have the need for a third click.

    I have also read somewhere that its okay to use a 3x FD with a 2x crank (as long as maximum teeth, and teeth difference of middle and big chainring are followed, and for the mechanic to have it tuned properly)

    What are your thoughts on this one? Do you think the above mentioned is compatible? I would to hear your thoughts on this.

    Thank you in advance,
    Guan

    Reply
    • Hi Guan,

      I’d expect Altus MD370 to work fine with a triple crank (even if one chainring is removed) and a triple shifter (even if one click is left unused because of the removed chainring).

      If you had a double crank with 14 or more teeth difference chainring size, then you should consider a double FD. But even then, the shifter can be a 3x one (as long as its pull matches the FD – chapter 8 of this article addresses that problem).

  13. Hey,
    Great Thread. Building up an old ti mtb with Alt bars for gravel, using a 30/46 sub compact crank with a Shimano CX70 (cross but meant for use with road shifters) top pull F. Der. I have a set of SRAM GX 2×10 trigger mtb shifters. I’m gathering from above you believe this will work well? Can you confirm? Thanks for any help.

    Reply
    • Hi Ben,

      Yes, I would expect CX70 to work with MTB front shifter, even if it’s a SRAM shifter (not Shimano).
      But, I haven’t tried the combo, so can’t confirm it.

  14. Hi Relja,
    your web page is really gold mine of useful information! I will definitely add it to my favorites for those long rainy days! 😉
    Now to my question – I bought Salsa Fargo Tiagra few years back and it is my favourite bicycle since I got it. Since I am more MTB orientated I miss those super easy gears for climbing. And there lies a problem, since those Tiagra shifters are not compatible with MTB rear derraileurs to go for a really big cassette in the back. So, I started to consider to change front chainrings from stock 26/36 to 22/36. Question is, will Deore front derailleur work with wider capacity of 14T, since it is specified at 10T? What is your opinion? Is there any other front derraileur from Shimano for 2×10 that would support this range and I could swap it easily?
    All the best from Slovenia!

    Reply
    • Hi Matjaz,

      You could use an MTB cassette with 11-34 teeth with many modern road rear derailleurs. Even when Shimano says otherwise, 2 to 4 extra teeth size is often manageable.

      If that doesn’t cut it (or you want an even bigger cassette), you could use a rear derailleur hanger extender. It’s shown in this video (for a 2×11 drivetrain).

      As for the front derailleur, it might just work well enough – the only way to be certain is to give it a go. I haven’t tried that combo so can’t confirm.
      The risk is that the relatively short cage of that FD could cause the chain to drag along its rear section when using the smaller front chainring with the smallest (few) sprocket(s) at the back.
      So, if you don’t cross-chain a lot, it might work fine.

      Another potential problem is the front shifting performance. It might be a bit slower, but I’d expect it to work.

      I don’t know of any modern MTB double FDs with a specified wider range. 🙁

      Finally, a thought to consider (sort of a Solomon’s solution):
      26 front chainring is not a huge one. I know you have more hills in Slovenia than we do in Vojvodina 🙂 but there’s no shame in pushing-walking on parts that get too rough, while having a bit less super-short gearing can be good in terms of pushing one to work a bit more.

      Relja

  15. Hi,
    I hope you can help me 🙂 I’m building a gravel-like bike, road shifters and MTB derailleurs. Rear is working ok (ST-5700 + RD-M772), but I can’t fix front derailleur. Shifter ST-5703, crankset FC-M780 (42-32-24) and shifter FD-M781. I can’t set all three gears to work. Are this parts compatibile, or I should change something? I have spear FD-M591 from 3×9 groupset, maybe this one will work better?
    Thanks and best regards

    Reply
    • Hi Pawel,

      For perfect front shifting with your Shimano 105 road shifters, you’d need a road front derailleur.
      You will also need cranks with a bit larger chainrings, since I don’t know of any 100% compatible road FDs that are built for fewer than 50 teeth (like Claris FD-R2030).
      Hence, road triple cranks would also be necessary for perfect shifting (like Claris FC-R2030 – requiring a Hollowtech II BB as well, like BB-RS500).

      For good-enough? I’d give it a go with what’s at hand. 5703 shifters have the trim option if memory serves me correctly (correct me if I’m wrong) so that also gives some wiggle room.

      Edit:
      PS

      I’m going with these shifters for my “gravel” build – hopefully they’ll arrive today! 🙂
      Shimano Dura Ace SL-BS77 Bar End Shifting Levers 2/3×9
      With some brake levers:
      Shimano BL-R400 Brake Lever (Pair) – black

      Cost an arm and a leg, but I expect they will last for at least one decade. 🙂

  16. Hi Relia,
    Thanks for quick answer. Even if it’s not what I expected 😀
    I don’t want to use road cranks, it’s just to big for me. So I will try again to fix it and have three gears. If it won’t be possible, I will use double crankset instead of triple.
    Regards from Poland 🙂

    Reply
  17. Thank you for this super set of articles.
    I did not know the difference between any of the pulls or mounts. I was lucky to get a dual mount but my front new front derailleur is low clamp when before it was high. It seems that the only issue is that the low mount would get in the way of my rear bottle cage screw so I may well get both types.
    Tim

    Reply

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