This article explains bicycle chain compatibility – which chains can be combined with which number of “speeds” (cassettes and cranks). From one to 12 speeds.
If you have any questions (or additions and corrections), please use the BikeGremlin forum’s compatibility section:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/forums/bike-compatibility/
Before you start, to avoid any misunderstanding:
please take the 5 minutes needed to read the compatibility articles use instructions.
Table Of Contents (T.O.C.):
- Basic bicycle chain facts
- Single-speed chains
- Five, 6, 7 and 8-speed chains
- 9 speeds
- 10 speeds
- 11 speeds
- 12 speeds
- Symmetrical vs asymmetrical chains
- Chain width standards table
TL/DR
Briefly put: you can use chains for more speeds with fewer-speed cassettes (and front chainrings), but not vice versa (at least not with cassettes – front chainrings are more forgiving for any mismatch).
For example: an 11-speed chain works fine on a 9-speed cassette (and cranks), but a 9-speed chain won’t be OK on an 11-speed cassette.
I’ve also explained the chain pitch, construction, and brielfy discussed symmetrical vs asymmetrical chains and added a table with chain widths depending on the number of “speeds.” You can use the table of contents to skip to the parts of interest.
1. Basic bicycle chain facts
All the bicycle chains share the same pitch of half an inch.
Where chains differ is the width. The more speeds, the narrower chain. Single-speed chains are the widest, both on the outside, and the inner roller width. They have a roller width of 1/8″ (3.175 mm).
The inner roller width of all the multi-speed chains is almost the same, being:
- Single-speed chains have an inner width of 1/8″ (3.175 mm).
- Multi-speed chains, from 5 to 8 speeds have an inner width of 3/32″ (2.38 mm).
- Multi-speed chains from 9 to 12 speeds have an inner width of 11/128″ (2.18 mm).
- An “exotic” standard for freight bicycles is a chain width of 5/32″ (4 mm).
Where they differ significantly is the outer width.
- A detailed overview of dimension standards is in the post: Bicycle drive chain standard dimensions.
- Post giving full view and explanation of bicycle chain construction (parts): Bicycle chain wear (elongation).
- See this great post by “Graeme_FK” on the Cycle Chat forum for an in-detail explanation of the “fine print” in terms of Campagnolo vs Shimano vs SRAM vs 1x chain compatibility and size differences.
How to connect and disconnect chains, with or without using quick links, video demonstration:
2. Single-speed chains
Single-speed chains are the widest of all. Both by the outer and the inner roller width: 1/8″ (3.175 mm) wide, compared to 3/32″ (2.38 mm) multi-speed ones. Since single speed chain is by far the cheapest, there is no need to experiment with multi-speed chains. However, 6 to 8-speed chains can fit some single speed bicycles – depending on the chainring width.
3. Five, 6, 7 and 8-speed chains
A 7.1 mm wide 8-speed chain* will fit all the other systems (5, 6 and 7-speed ones). Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo all use the same chain with 8 speeds. The chain for 7 speeds is a bit wider – 7.3 mm, while a 6-speed one is substantially wider – 7.8 mm. That is why the reverse is not the case and a 7-speed chain and especially a 6-speed one will not work very well on an 8-speed system.
* Based on my most recent measurements, 8-speed chain widths vary from 7 mm (SRAM PC-830), to 7.3 mm (KMC X-8). Also, some manufacturers (like KMC) make their 6, 7, and 8-speed chains using the same width of 7.3 mm. This (and my personal experience with 7.3 mm wide KMC chains) leads me to conclude that 7.3 mm wide chains work fine for 8 speed cassettes. Also, as noted in this article, using a narrower chain works fine in practice (hence, the 7.3 mm wide chain runs fine on a 6-speed cassette). However, don’t let this “fool you” into using any 6-speed chain on an 8-speed cassette, since you might run into a 7.8 mm wide chain (i.e. “a proper 6-speed chain”), which won’t work very nice on an 8-speed cassette (haven’t tried it on a 7-speed one, but generally, extra-wide chains don’t fare very well, while narrower ones usually run without any problems).
Of others, 9-speed chains can work. They’re a bit narrower than optimal, but can be used. The reverse is not wise, since a wider 5 – 8 speed chain can get stuck between narrower 9-speed sprockets.
Going further narrower, like a 10, or 11-speed chain on an 8-speed cassette can and often does work.
I’ve had good results even with running a 10-speed chain on a 7-speed cassette and cranks.
However, especially with older 6-speed cassettes combined with 11, or 12-speed chains, there is a risk of the chain getting stuck between the cassette sprocket teeth and/or poorer shifting.
An exception is SRAM 1x systems, for DH MTB bicycles – they have 7 rear sprockets, but use an 11-speed chain!
4. 9 speeds
The chain width is about 6.7 mm. In a pinch, a 10-speed chain can be used. Still, the narrower chain is more expensive, doesn’t last as long *1 and might cause a bit slower shifting… but it will work. Problems generally occur at the rear – on cassettes. Front chainrings are less sensitive to the thickness of the chain used.
Otherwise, all the 9-speed chains will work well, regardless of the manufacturer: Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano.
5. 10 speeds
The chain width is 5.88 mm. Same as for 9 speeds: all the manufacturers can be mixed and a chain for one speed more can be used in a pinch – an 11 -speed chain in this case.
6. 11 speeds
The chain width is 5.62 mm. 11-speed chains of all the manufacturers are mutually compatible.
Since 10 and 11-speed chains (as well as cassette teeth) have almost the same widths, a 10-speed chain can be used instead of an 11 speed-one, without it jamming between the sprockets. However, this will still not work perfectly and will cause premature sprocket wear, so better to avoid it.
The exception are Shimano Hyperglide+ chains, which work only with Hyperglide+ cassettes, whether they are 11, or 12-speed (the same chain is used) – according to Shimano, haven’t put that to the test.
7. 12 speeds
Chain width is 5.25 mm. Made by SRAM, and (from mid-2018) by Shimano for their 12-speed MTB groupsets (for now), and Campagnolo (who only make road groupsets). They generally work with fewer speed systems, with two “catches:”
- SRAM Flattop chains might skip on cassettes that are not SRAM AXS road cassettes (they have a bit larger diameter rollers and can skip on “normal” cassettes, including SRAM Eagle MTB cassettes).
- Shimano Hyperglide+ 11 and 12-speed chains work nicely only with Hyperglide+ chainrings and cassettes.
8. Symmetrical vs asymmetrical chains
Shimano is, as far as I know, the only manufacturer that makes asymmetrical chains (as well as regular, symmetrical ones). The advantage of an asymmetrical chain is easier and quicker shifting from the small to the large front chainring and vice versa.
The picture above shows how the asymmetrical chain doesn’t have the same outer plates for the “outer” and “inner” (towards the bicycle) side.
When Shimano first introduced asymmetrical chains for road double chainrings, it was recommended not to use them on triple chainrings. They still, however, work well on triple chainrings as well.
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9. Chain width standards table
Table of chain outer widths:
(this table is for the readers’ convenience – an up-to-date table is in the article about bicycle chain standards)
Chain no. of speeds | Outer width in mm |
---|---|
All 6-speed | 7.8 |
All 7-speed | 7.3 |
All 8-speed | 7 ~ 7.3 * |
All 9-speed | 6.5 – 6.7 |
10-speed old Campagnolo | 6.2 |
All other 10-speed | 5.84 – 6.1 |
All 11-speed | 5.46 – 5.74 ** |
SRAM 12-speed MTB | 5.25 |
Shimano 12-speed MTB and 13-speed chains | See the table in the article about Bicycle chain standards (it’s more accurate when updating info in one place only) |
** Related to 11-speed, see the two comments by Klaus here (thanks for the valuable feedback),
until I double-check and confirm.
Related post – How to shorten a new chain to size when mounting:
Compatibility posts are also available in eBook (printable and Kindle) and paperback editions on Amazon:
If you have any questions (or additions and corrections), please use the BikeGremlin forum’s compatibility section:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/forums/bike-compatibility/
The existing comments regarding this article (questions and answers) have been moved to this BikeGremlin forum thread:
https://www.bikegremlin.net/threads/compatibility-01-chains-article-comments.102/
- I did a bicycle chain durability test and concluded that, in practice, chain durability depends on its build quality, not on its number of speeds (i.e. its thickness). ↩︎
Last updated:
Originally published:
Relja,
I didn’t think about the liability issues; I’ll keep that in mind when I contact companies directly in the future. Looking back on my previous posts, I was being a bit petulant. I guess my frustration with the bike industry is getting to me. What’s the point of offering a crank that lasts decades when you only have spare parts for a few years? This is just the latest frustrating repair issues I have had.
Ever since I bought this bike, it has been a quixotic fight every time I wanted to fix it or change a component, it’s been a huge headache each time. 1) I wanted to get compact gearing, but Shimano didn’t make one at the time, so when with Stronglight ISIS drive crank. When it broke, ISIS was “old news”, so I went to Sugino JIS square taper. 2) When my 9sp shifters broke, I couldn’t fix them since I don’t have an industrial robot. Even used ones were hard to find and NOS shifters cost more than the latest 10/11sp, so I got Campy 11sp (pre-2015, has the same cable pull as Shimano 9). 3) Needed to get newer Shimano brake calipers because Campy’s leverage was too great for them, hard to modulate the old brakes. 4) Somewhere along the line, I got old and needed lower gearing… needless to say Shimano abandoned 9sp by this time. MicroShift to the rescue with their R10 derailleur… still needed to change out the jockey and tension pulleys to run a 9sp chain.
I did think of a 3rd option for my current problem: buy a new 10sp crank and run a 10sp chain, throwing way a perfectly good crank. I know considering the money and time I spent, I probably should have given up long ago and upgraded to 10sp, but like I said, I am stubborn and hate throwing out stuff the works just fine for me.
Anyway, there might be a glimmer of hope. There is a “right to repair” movement in the USA. I think one of the proposals would force companies to make spare parts available to 3rd parties (if they have them). I bet Sugino has a warehouse full of unsold 9sp rings.
Here ends *my* rant 🙂
welcome to the wonderful world of bicycles,yes it can do your head in sometimes,i allways say no two bicycles are the same,no two bike parts are the same,then you also have different makers doing different fitting tools,like i say nothing is standard in the bicycle world allways expect the unexpected when fixing bikes,yes things do change alot,just when you mastered fixing your own bike out pops a new part and tools,it gets that bad sometimes you just have to invent your own tool,its all part of the fun just never give up,if you cant find an option someone on google will have the solution,if its not on google well then its time to to get another bycicle.
i spend endless hours just looking for the right fitting tools and the bicycle parts are abit easier to find,getting the right tools for the job makes things easy,not alot of ranting and raving then,super B makes some nice tools but some tools are abit oversized but most are reasonable quality and they still make tools for the older steel bikes,i like the super B cone spanners and bottom bracket tools
another great tool i just got is the super B,2 in 1 tyre bead jack tool,this one comes with one tyre lever and the tyre bead jack for very tight fitting tyres,this one is a smaller version of the larger workshop tyre bead jack and it fits in your pocket,very good tool.similar to the one var tools make,love your new website layout Relja
i just took out a whole bunch of retro style bottom bracket cups and those 3 notch and 4 notch lockrings,the fixed cups were supposed to be 36mm wrench flats,the only brand that came close to 36mm was the shimano fixed cup,some others were 35.8mm,the lockrings for the other side were even all different sizes,then i measured two different tools to remove those 36mm bottom bracket fixed cups,both tools were 36.5 mm and these tools were sold as being precise fitting 36mm tools,way to big to be any use,then you look at most bicycle cone spanners even those tools are a loose fit,tools only need to be .1 mm bigger then the part but alot of bike tools are way oversized,i have had to make a few tools and look for other trade tools that will do the job as i am fed up with throwing brand new bicycle tools in the recycle bin because they are poorly fitting